TRUCKS, TRUCKS & MORE TRUCKS

Trucks are the lifeline that holds Djibouti up and is the umbelical cord for Ethiopia. There are only two paved roads in Djibouti. The most important, National Hwy #1, which is only partially paved, runs from Djibouti City and its port to Accra, Ethiopia. Ethiopia is landlocked, so all of its imports, which are many, come through Djibouti. There are many truck accidents on the road and so, we don't drive at night. And,damaged trailers, are often left along side the road forever.

THE GOATS OF DJIBOUTI

In Djibouti there are goats everywhere, in the city, in the middle of the highway, along the countryside and on top of trees. Yes, on top of the trees getting at the tastiest bits of new green growth. The Djiboutians are traditionally nomadic goat herders. They still are. And their goats are fine looking, healthy and happy.

Goat is the country's traditional dish. I have eaten goat and it is really delicious. Although, it is very fatty. So, you have to go through a lot of fat to get to the meat. It is very hard to understand how these goats can get fat living on lava rock. But, they do!

MINIBUSES OF DJIBOUTI

The minibuses of Djibouti are famous for their decoration. Some have huge plumes arising from their front or rear bumpers. Most have a flower-like covering surrounding their sideview mirrors and all have special colors or emblems painted on them. There are minibuses in all levels of repair, from dented, falling apart to new and well cared for. They are on the streets in town and in the countryside.

They are almost always crowded with people, some hanging out of the doors on the more popular long haul routes into town. Luggage and other goods can be carried on top. Minibuses are everywhere. Most Djiboutians walk everywhere they want to go. If they can afford to ride, a minibus is always nearby.

OYSTERS

Down by the beach, below our house at the compound, where they will be storing the salt and building a jetty where the large ships will come for loading, there is a fabulous bay called the Goubet Al Kharab. It is filled with fish and seafood. We can see many colorful fish and teaming schools of fish just from the shore.

Two of Salt Investment's Phillipine contract employees go often into the water and bring back pink mussels, clams, fish and even oysters. Last week they encountered a huge eel. John is holding one of the oyster shells from an oyster they found and ate. It is a special oyster, the kind seeded to produce pearls. Legend has it, that someone many years ago wanted to start a pearl production facility here and planted these oysters. Long abandoned, they have just multiplied on their own. Have you ever seen such a large oyster shell before?

When we come back in February, after our leave home, we are bringing our snorkels, fins and throwaway underwater camera so we can see these wonderful creatures up close. We will try and take some great pictures to share on our blog.

KHAT

KHAT - the drug of choice in Djibouti. Legal and even grown by the Prime Minister, khat is pervasive. It is sold every afternoon on every street corner, on every road inside Djibouti City and out in the countryside. Most of the khat is grown in Ethiopia and brought to Djibouti in trucks like the one above filled with armed guards. This truck has a lead car also filled with armed guards.

Khat is a stimulant. There are different grades - but it all looks the same to me - a handfull of twigs with medium size green leaves. It is chewed by men, rarely if ever by women. After several hours of khat chewing, the men are basically in a daze. No work can be done and the whole economy comes to a halt. It is really a debilitating drug. Djiboutians can spend up to 1/3 of their meager incomes on khat. But, it is a part of their culture.

Salt Investment is attempting to be a KHAT FREE workplace. We have so much heavy equipment here that it is dangerous to be drugged and working. This is a very difficult concept for the Djiboutians to grasp. Wish us luck.

Humidity Haze and After the Rains

In Djibouti one can understand the ongoing need for rain. After days of no rain, what we call humidity haze hides the mountains and sits over the water like a thin veil. John and I saw the same effect in South Africa. The extreme heat and humidity mix together with particulate matter in the air and form a haze that goes on for miles. The humidity haze even obscures the sun and turns it a golden hue as in the first picture above.

But, after the rains, the air is clean and clear. You can see for miles and miles. It is a welcome change.

Traditional Djiboutian Housing

Traditional Djiboutian Housing comes in two models: The portable Daboita, made from date palm stems and in the past covered with animal skins (now plastic or canvas type material is used) and the stationary Tulo, built from stones with a roof of whatever is available, scrap pieces of metal, wood, tarps, etc.

The Daboita can be dismantled and carried by camel to wherever the nomadic Djiboutian finds water for his animals. The Tulo is built and abandoned as the need arises. So, we see the countryside littered with Tulos without roofs. The roof could be transported and volcanic rock is plentiful everywhere, so no need to carry the material to make the foundation of the house.

Both houses are used predominantly for shade and protection from the occasional rain shower. Only women and small children sleep inside either structure. Men and boys sleep outside.